Monday, December 27, 2010


On Christmas day, I had the opportunity to head out to the cave above the ice park with my good friend E House to give a goo to my project. It was sunny and in the warm side. I was feling pretty good energy wise, some words of encouragement from my friend and I went to send my first project of the season.
The proj is call The grand traverse of the cave grade? M hard. Harder that any other route in the cave where routes go up to M11+. It may off be the second or first ascent of this route. No really sure!!!
This is the hardest Mixed route that I have ever climb so far and this is enough for me.
What a great route.!!!!!!
Here is a over view of the route: Starts on the left side and start traversing all the way to the right. The opening sequence is pretty cool follow by quite dynamic climbing and finishing on a steep head wall the technical crux, where I had fall in previous attempts with 8 tries total is been the longest mixed climb for me to rep point in terms of tries. It was a great challenge especially mental one.

Photo of victory sharing great felling with a friend who has give me lots of inspiration and tons of encouragement. Plus he totally when out his way to give me a belay for the final send.
Thanks bro E House!!!!!

Tuesday, December 7, 2010


The Ice conditions this winter in the San Juan's is been out the hook everything is ON!!!!!!
So far I had the opportunity to climb most of the classics like this one THE TALISMAN.
The talisman of one of the hardest classics where the climb is very steep and engaging especially in condition like this.

I had the opportunity to climb this route in the end of November with a climber who I consider one of the best and who I also had the chance to hang out and learn tons from. This guy have define what alpine climbing is all about. His name Steve House. He has been a great mentor and a person who have teach me lots of cool stuff in the short time that we have been climbing together. Thank for all the inspiration S H.

Here is a close up photo of what is waiting for us up there.

The first pitch we did in 2 because the difficulty of it. No much ice but lots of low angle unprotectable loose rock and frozen grass. quiet scary!!!!

We wore pretty busy dealing with the second pitch that we didi not have time to shot some photos, but let me tell you that it was pretty dam hard.

Here Steve leading the 3 pitch very steep ice. keep in mind that we wore the first team to climb this route this season so everything was very fresh and is usually harder.

After the good climbing with a great friend and climbing partner was time for a WE ARE IN ONE PIECE and ALIVE photo. great times Steve thanks again brother :)


This year was the 4 annual ice night in Colorado springs.
The ice night is basically an indoor climbing demonstration where you can dry tool in indoor climbing holds and swing into the ice holdz.
Lots of people come to see and people from all levels can climb and check out what this event is all about. definitely good times!!!!!! Some sending on the dry tool route long moves very fun!!!!!
In the second chance that we had to climb the route and since no body have make it to the top on the the first try, I was able to make the fardest on the route. In the end, the route still not send, but we all had great time!!!!!

Wednesday, December 1, 2010


I got to Ouray in mid October super psyched to be back in the San Juan's to see my friends to climb especially mixed climb and train for the winter projects and competitions.
Since last winter I have been thinking about this wall who would be perfect for my training, climbing and every body's enjoyment to climb new mixed, (more realistic) dry routes.
As much of you know, (who ever have put up new routes) that is lots of work. right !!!
picking the line, figure it out where and how you are going to bolt it, cleaning all the lose rock and then and last SENDING IT !!!!!!!!

Conditions were perfect. Sunny, warm and dry. I gather some gear that I got from my friends Clint Cook and Steve House who very nice and help me out and there I went. The mission is on the way !!!!!!!!!
First I start with the steepest part of the wall where the lines there are pretty cool looking a series of roofs where the climbing looks very interesting.

This roof is very cool feature and climbs really cool too....
Little bit on the hard side to bolt. My back was pretty work after I finish with it...
Then from the roof down is was pretty fast to figure it out where the line should go.....

Especially with a Hilti power drill soooooo much better than hand drill how I usually drill in the desert with.

After some long day is all done ready to be climb the first of 4 routes who are going to be put up in the course of this winter. Is time to SEND.
My good friend Bryan Gilmore who is a bad ass and myself agree that is about keep it real M8
Maybe a big harder!!!!
I wanted to thank Anita who help me out on the bolted day, Clint Cook for the drill and drilling kit and Steve House for the hangers. Many thanks Amigos !!!!!!!!!