Friday, March 25, 2011


I came back some weeks ago from Russia where I participated in the 2011 Ice Climbing World Cup.
This was my 3 time competing on the World Cup, representing US and Colombia on it.
This time I had the pleasure to travel with a good friend of mine Sam Elias.
Our adventure start starts at the DIA where Emily H (Sam's girl friend) drop off.
From it was on.......

At 4:20 our flight is departing directly to Moscow. We are super psyched since neither of us have been in that country before.

Their we go in our way.. 10 ours flight that end up been more like 14 since we had a emergency land in Canada due a passenger got very sick.

finally in our final destination Moscow!!!!!! what a cool City in its own way.

We had the opportunity to do some site seeing in red square. Pretty cool history.
After a night in Moscow we had the chance to do last minute training. Our friend Pavel who it was our Russian connection /translator/ Coach. Took us to a place where we were able to do some climbing and hang out. At this point we are trying to change time since it is almost 10 our difference in time zone.

That same afternoon it was time for us to head North East to Kirov, the place where the comp is taking place. We will be in the train for the next 14 Hours.

This train ride it was one of the most interesting part of our trip.
After a long night and a long train ride we are finally in Kirov.
We had a pretty cool opening ceremony with some important people from Russia.
all the competitors were divided by countries, and here we are the US team.!!!!

It was about 18 different countries participating here in Kirov.

After the ceremony the comp starts. The time that we have to expend on the isolation room it was little much. Once they call your name is on time to send. The route is about a artificial M11 and you just 6 min to complete the route in my case I run out time before I even start getting pump :( I guess my lesson is to climb faster.

In the end we all had great time don't matter were you place it was a great event and a very cool competition where you can see the best mixed climbers in the world climbing, competing and having great time.

After all the fun in kirov, it was time for us to head back to US.
Many thanks for the UIAA and the Russia Climbing Federation for helping and facilitating our trip.

Friday, March 4, 2011


One of my projects for this winter was climbing Chinese Water Torture on gear (no clipping the blots) Usually this route has a grade of M8+ using the bolts, but on gear it would be more a M8+ R X. It has become a style that really fits my personality ( mental and phisically) I really like in it.
It is a great way to learn about myself it makes me get out my confort zone and I get to learn lots about the hole experience.
Is also the first time that this route is has been done in this style.
The route takes the gear on sections in which many of the pieces are very marginal in fact if I had to rated on aid climbing grades and in terms of how much the pieces will held if I would of fall on them, it will more like a A3+ to A4-.
No much confidence on them.
I decided to use a half rope system to have less impact force on the pieces in case of a fall for this the Blue Water excellence half rope system was the choise for the job.

All do my mind set it was not falling aloud.

Here is a secuense of the route. All photos wore taking by Jason Thompson. The complete gear photo myself (Andres Marin Collection)