Tuesday, September 21, 2010

HALF DOME IN A DAY


After having little hard time finding the right person for the mission that I wanted to do, plus the temperatures at the valley, Finally all the start line up and I got the chance to find my right partner and the temps wore great.
I wanted to climb this formation for a long time. The Half Dome. It is one of the most spectacular formations on planet Earth.
The approach is kinda long so keeps most of climbers out this awesome piece of rock.
We decided to climb the North West Regular route 5.12 a 24 pitches.


Here in Camp 4 Getting ready for our climb. Checking all the gear and making sure that we had enough. Our gear consist in:

2 set of cams up to 2,
singles in 3 and 4,
12 shoulder slings,
1 single 70 M Blue water Pulse rope,
1 Blue water 70 M tag line (super sweet for the chimneys to haul the pack up)
1 little back pack with 3 litters of water, bars and other goodies.

We wanted to climb this route on a single push either of us have had climb this route before, so the anticipation of on- sighting a route of this caliber was pretty big.


Fortunate I had a great partner that I meet in Camp 4 a super strong Basque climber, with a supper good sense of humor and very positive human been. His name is Miquel. What a cool DUDE!!!!!! Here Miquel approaching the Half Dome via the slaps. Check out the back ground!!!!!
This approach was little on the heads up. But with awesome views.
Once at the base of the route where we bivy, we wore doing the last preparations before we lounge next morning.

This is a view of the wall form down bellow. The wall is North facing so offers shade until 2:30 or so and then the sun hits it. Pretty good combo little chilly in the morning, but you know that El Sol is coming to warm you up :)


IS ON!!!!! climbing time. We decide to climb the wall in blocks of 5 pitches. We did it in such a way that I end up leading all the chimneys and OW's. I start the route with a good warm up of polish 5.10 c. We wore super PSYCHED !!!!!!!!!! After 5 pitches it was time for Miquel to take the lead. After we switch, we realize that it was a very strong French team with the same strategy in terms of climbing the wall in a day. Plus it was 2 other parties above us how wore climbing the wall in a wall style they already wore there for 2 days going for their 3 on the wall. We wore little concern about some many people on the route, but decided to carry on with our plan and know we wore in a friendly race with the Frenchies :)
After Miquel climb super fast his block, it was time for me to take over. This is the beginning of the chimneys I was super amp to climb this section. It is 4 pitches of old school 5.9 wide climbing. In this section we pass one aid climbing team and start having a good space with the french team since they wore not looking forward for this section.

Alright after loots of sketchy wide climbing where Miquel and I loss good amount of skin
we wore done with some people especially the Euros call the "crux" of the route.
My partner took over for the Sig Sag cracks they are 3 pitches of 5.11+ /12- at this point we encounter a little traffic jam and been just less than 8 pitches we decided that if could not on-sight this section it was all good we just wanted to make it up in a good time.
The French time wore moving supper fats. they wore doing all source of cool wall techniques short free climb fixing simul climbing :(, you name it very cool to See them the way they move.
They finally catch us at this section, but we all ready wore in front so we had the chance to chat little at the Big sandy ledge. Once Miquel was done with his section, it was time for me to take over. This pitch was my favorite one they cal this one the Thank God Ledge. you are about 2,000 feet of the deck and know you have to basically walk along side of this 80 feet side walk. it is awesome exposure. At this point I wanted to jump out this wall it would be a great place to do it :)
Miquel lead the last 3 pitches. Here he was able to snap a photo of me following with a great Sun light.
Top out at the last little day light. We enjoy the view and company got some water food head lamps on and start our descent. That part for was the scariest one going down the cables in the dark and very tired was interesting. Those cables are wayyyyyyyyyy steep that I very imagine considering that lots of hikers do it every day.

Summit photo with a great friend and climber.
What a good experience be able to climb a great piece of rock.

Many thanks Miquel for the good energy and great company. :)

THE AWESOME YOSEMITE

After some good days of sky diving, I decide to head down to Yosemite.
This place is awesome. El Capitan will take the breath away from you once to get to see it.

Yosemite not only offers great Climbing, but lots of very cool places the check out.

Kinda cool features in the middle of the rock faces.
I could just stay on the meadows and stir on the horizon fro ever. What a cool place !!!!!!!!

Monday, September 20, 2010

SKY DIVING IN LODI

My first stop after leaving WA, was to check out Lodi.
Lodi is one of the coolest Drop Zone in the USA.
Super Cheap and great atmosphere make Lodi one of the best places to jump.
The first persons that I saw once I got there was my good friends Dean Potter and Ammon Mcneely. Since I didn't knew anybody there seeing them was awesome.
After chatting with them and getting all the beta about the DZ there we wore on our way to go jumping together.

Super good jump with them. Know there we wore packing the rigs and getting ready to do it again. This two in this photo are the most impressive jumpers and climbers that you will ever meet. Plus this guys are the most humble people too.
Dean had to go back to Yosemite, so it was Ammon and I for the rest of the time in Lodi.
Ammon took me under his wing and start teaching me lots.
In one of our jumps together, we had a little crash way up there at terminal speed 120 MPH!!.
We wore docking on a 2 way formation. In about 25 sec after we exit the plain and in one of our attempts to dock, I got little to high from him and them I cam down very fats hitting him and smashing his camera I boost my lip!!!! but we keep going forward to our plan.. super fun jump :) once we reach the ground we find out that the camera is totally broke. went to target get other camera and keep going with the fun times.
What a cool place to jump. Here the pretty ladies show what's up to the boys. Yeah ladies !!!!!!!!! way to gooooooo!!!!!!
After 3 days of jumping it was time for me to go climbing to Yosemite.
unfortunately Ammon got boosted jumping from el Cap, so he wanted to stay out of the park for awhile.

Very good times in Lodi highly recommended to check out that DZ...
Thank to Dean and Ammon for all the good times and all the learning from them.
WHAT AN INSPIRATION ARE THOSE DUDES.!!!!!!


video video

Monday, September 6, 2010

CALIFORNIA

AFTER A GREAT SEASON IN WA, IS TIME FOR ME TO MOVE ON.
KNOW I'M IN CALIFORNIA WHERE SO FAR,
I HAD THE CHANCE TO GO SKY DIVING IN LODI WITH DEAN POTER AND AMMON MCNEELY.
LOTS OF LEARNING FORM THOSE AWESOME FRIENDS.

NOW I'M IN YOSEMITE CLIMBING AND HAVING LOTS OF GOOD TIMES WITH FRIENDS FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD.

PHOTOS AND DEATIL BLOG COMING SOON.

CHEERS

ANDRES