Thursday, February 25, 2010

MIGTHY APHRODITE ON GEAR!!!!

Mighty Aphrodite!!!!! it is one of the coolest lines in the Ouray ice park.
Little history about this route: it was put up by Lucy Creamer a super strong British Climber in the late 90's. She didn't wanted to put bolts, so she work the roue from the ground up on top rope. once she had the route very wired, she pre place the protection and did it on that style.
After her ascent, the route just saw very few ascents. Years past and nobody really climbed the route because of the seriousness of the grade M9 R X.
Last year after the consent of the first ascentionist, Mark Miller a long time local super good climber, talked with Lucy and asked her if he could bolt the route for a safer future ascents.
Once the route was bolted I had the chance to be the first person to On-sight the route from that point on it has see many red points.

Last week after being inspired by a climber from SLC who wanted to attempt the route on the old style (pre-placing the protection) and not clipping the bolts,
I came with the idea of doing the route on the most pure style possible. placing my own gear from the ground up. Crazyyy from the ground up MAN!!!!!

I did a top rope run to figure out the gear and came the next day.
It was a super cool experience it totally change the sequence of the route and the mental part is pretty hard too.
My commitment level it was pretty high. No room for mistakes if you blow it you will be seriously damage.
Mi body Mike T was the belayer and Vince Anderson was the witness.
After did a route of high intensity and been at the top I was very happy to be able to do the route on the most pure style that any body had climb it.

Here is the beginning of the route where is the serious business. At this point any fall would have terrible consequences.
I'm above a very old angle piton. After climbing a long ways above my placement, I finally get the section of the route where I can plug couple of pieces.
Little piece of mind here after plugging 3 OK pieces in a roll. I decide to used a half ropes system in order to minimise the force on my protection. the Blue Water excellence 8.4 MM half ropes.
Last pro of the route before heading to the final part of the route.
Here I'm just about to place a bird beak and secure it with a piece of Gum yeah!!! GUM


The top of the route the most hectic part of the climb. Below me I had a bird beak and below that I had a micro stopper, couple aliens and then a big ledge that would hurt me bad if I did not stick the top move. top out!!!!!! and is all good times MIGTHY MIGTHY BABY:)

Monday, February 22, 2010

THE SKY IS FALLING

The Sky is Falling. This route it is pretty cool. It is originally grade M10, but I personally think that it is M9. The first part of the route is pretty cool WI 4+. Is the same start for the Tourist trap, but you go left traversing the wild roof. super cool moves from the beginning of the rock part. cut your feet lose, some up side down moves.. move out of the roof and hit the head wall for a very cool finish.
What a cool route. highly recommended!!!!!!!!

AMES ICE HOSE AND BRIDAIL VAIL IN A DAY

I had a great time with my body Mike T linking two of the most classic Ice Climbs in USA.
We Start with Bridal Vail. This climb is the most 3D Ice Climb EVER!!!!
This year the 2 pitch is little crazy, but very very cool.
This 2 Climbs wore Mikes first Ice climbs of the season. WAY TO GO MIKE T!!!!!!!
Then we went to the Ice Hose. I did the 1 and 2 pitch together creating and amazing 65 meters ice pitch.
The first pitch it was very pick out. but no pro man!!!!!! really no pro man!!!!! The landing zone is very good. deep snow on a steep slope. If you blow it you can roll down the windows wile catching some serious AIR!!!!!
Here is Mike T leading the last enduro pitch of the Ice Hose venga venga apretando MIKE!!!!!!!!!
Good times on the San Juan's with a great friend.

Tuesday, February 9, 2010

BACK IN USA

AFTER 21 DAYS OF ICE WORLD CUP COMPS, MIXED AND ICE CLIMBING IN EUROPE,
I'M NOW BACK AT HOM EIN OURAY.

IT WAS AND AWESOME EXPERIENCE. BE BALE TO SEE FRIENDS NEW PLACES AND HAVE LOTS OF FUN.

I WOULD LIKE TO THANKS TO ALL MY SPONSORS.
ESPECIAL THANKS TO ICE HOLDZ, EDDIE BAUER FIRST ASCENT AND RMI FOR ALL THE SUPPORT.

MANY THANKS.



Thursday, February 4, 2010

THE GORZDERETTE

THE GORZDERETTE: THE FUNNEST ICE CLIMBING FESTIVAL THAT I HAD BEEN.
THIS FESTIVAL IS IN CHAMPAGNY FRANCE A SMALL VILLAGE UP ON THE MOUNTAINS.
THE STRUCTURE IS AMAZING REAL ICE COMBINE WITH VERY PARTICULAR MIXED CLIMBING.
THIS FESTIVAL IS MAINLY SPONSOR BY ASOLO PETZL.

HERE THE COMP IS VERY DIFFERENT THAT ANY OTHER CLIMBING COMP. IT IS WAY MORE CHILL THAN THE WORLD CUP, AND YOU HAVE TO COMPETE WITH A PARTNER IN MANY DIFFERENT EVENTS AND IN THE END ALL THE POINTS COME TOGETHER FOR A FINAL SCORE. ONE OF THE CATEGORIES ARE CROSS COUNTRY FOR A KILOMETER!!!
PULL THIS HEAVY THING AROUND HAS FAST ES YOU CAN THEN, YOU HAVE TO SNOWSHOEING WITH A HUGE SNOW SHOE WHERE IS TWO BINDINGS, SO IS TWO PEOPLE ON THE SAME RIG PRETTY FUNNY THEN YOU HAVE TO A MOUNTAIN CIRCUIT IN ICE TERRAIN WITH OUT CRAMPONS AND LAST YOU GO AND GET PUMP ON THE ICE TOWER. THIS WAS PRETTY COOL LOTS OF PEOPLE GOT TOGETHER FOR THIS PHOTO PRETTY COOL !!!!!
A LOOK FROM THE TOP OF THE TOWER.
A NIGHT IT WAS SHOW TIME. WE WORE 10 PRO CLIMBERS HOW WHORE INVITED TO THIS EVENT, SO WE HAD TO DO A CLIMBING SHOW AT NIGHT FOR THE PUBLIC. HERE BEN Y MYSELF DECIDED TO CLIMB THE TOWER WITH ONLY 3 AXES FOR THE TWO OF US IN ONE POINT WE HAVE TO TOSS THE AXE TO EACH OTHER IN ORDER TO MAKE THE NEXT MOVE. IT WAS SUPERR FUN.
HERE IS A PHOTO WIT THE GUYS HOW MAKE IT HAPPEN SUPER GOOD PEOPLE VERY STRONG CLIMBERS AND BASE JUMPERS. DAMIAN ERWIN.
HERE IS A PHOTO WITH ONE OF MY HEROES A GUY HOW PUSH THE LIMITS OF ICE CLIMBING AND MIXED CLIMBING. HE ALSO HELP TO DEVELOP THE SPORT OF ICE AND MIXED CLIMBING IN CHINA WITH CRAIG LUEBBEN AND GUY LACELLE. THIS GUY IS A TOTALLY JEDI MASTER.HA!! ALSO THIS GUY DESIGN SOME OF THE COOL ICE TOOLS THAT PETZL MAKES. THANKS FOR THE INSPIRATION STEPHAN GUSSON!!!!!
IT WAS SUPER GOODS TIMES HERE AT THE GORZDERETTE. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND CHECKING OUT THIS FESTIVAL YOU WOULD HAVE LIKE GUY LACELLE SAID: A HELL OF A PARTY!!!!
video