Monday, August 12, 2013


Our expedition was just in credible.
Every moment was juts fantastic, in our journey to the top of Alpamayo: 
from our long bus ride from Lima to Huaraz, meeting great people in Huaraz,
putting all our gear together in H town, taking the bus to Cachapampa, the magic hike through the majestic canyons that took us to our first camp where we spend the our first night out where we can hear the Santa Cruz River running with its clear water. 
Our next day hike to Base camp where the first view of our objective and lots of other just stunning mountains that captive our attention. 
Once at BC the UNO games start and the scores start to acumulate. 
The meals that Max (our chef) made for us where out of a 5 stars mountain hotel. Our way up making carries and getting and higher we got to see different side of the hills side and the glacier open right to our view. 
Moraine camp at the foot of the main glacier was a great place to observe our surounding. After spending the night there it was time for us to head up an get to Col camp, where cool glacier travel and little of climbing was waiting for us.
We also witness the strengh of our porters Zacarias and Pelayo, that carrying 90 pounds of stuff did not slow them down a bit to climb steep snow at 16,000. 
Once Col camp the hole entire face of Alpamayo was just in front of us with its dreamy looking ice runnels that go from the top all the way to the base. After the rest day, it was time for us to atemtp the summit. 
We woke up super early alpine start early and start heading to the base of the route. 
300M 45 to 60 degree ice runnel was waiting for us. 
The climb was just fun super sticky ice and dreamy snow took us to the top of Alpamayo where, we all enjoy our success. We took some photos and start rappelling the face. 
It was a very long route 10 hours round trip of just fun climbing and rappelling, before we knew it, we find ourselves back in camp, a rest day was in order and then we start back tracking our way down to BC where Rodrigo and Max had plan a fun day of rest and eating  for us. 
They made a very special plate call PACHAMANCA. 
It takes long time to make since they make a fire first, dig a hole put all the food in the hole cover it and let it cook for 45 min. It was a great feast. 
The next day it was time for us to start our hike down to Huaraz. 
We spend couple of days there and we all flew back home safe and sound. All and all it was a superb expedition full of great time and incredible views and company. I'm totally looking forward to do it again next year. I also wanted to thank Ted, Chris, Julie, Charles, Rodrigo and company for such incredible times.