ANDRES MARIN SENDS OURAY'S HARDEST MIXED LINES IN A DAY
By Shelby Carpenter
Local climber Andres Marin just sent five of the hardest mixed lines in Ouray's Posers Cave in a single day. "My first visit to the cave was about six years ago," Marin writes in an email toRock and Ice. "I remember being overwhelmed by the place and how steep the climbing is."
"I also remember hearing that one of my climbing heroes Will Gadd did a session in which he dispatched all the routes in the same day."
On December 29, 2012, Marin did the same series of routes: Cinnamon and Cider (M11), theGrand Traverse of the Cave (M11), Gold Line(M10), Fist Full of Steel (M10-), and Troglodyte(M9).
In the past, Marin, who originally hails from Colombia, has sent hard mixed routes on gear such as Chinese Water Torture (M8+RX) andMithy Aphrodite (M9RX). His next big plans involve training for the Alaska alpine season and preparing for an ice climbing demonstration in a bid to include the sport in then 2014 winter Olympics.
Next day the fest was in full speed. I spend the day teaching a clinic about ice climbing the day was really fun many athletes and students all learning and having great time.
I had the opportunity to teach a clinic for Petzl about ice climbing.
On Saturday the competition took place down town Bozeman!!!!
The structure was pretty cool and the ambience was great.
All and all a great times.
On te last day of the fest Jason T, Tyler J, Gilbert and Laura J did some photo work for Millet
Jason photos turn out being really cool!!!!
Super awesome times in Bozeman what a great event and totally looking forward to be there next year!!!!!
Winter is my favorite time of the year, where I get to opportunity to train hard and keep a super strict routine. Also, it is competition season, so work ethic needs to be at 100% focused.
With strong work ethic and hard training results are awesome and goals that can be accomplished.
Earlier this Winter I finished a long time project of mine.
About 6 years ago I was introduce to hard mixed climbing and the place where I was taken soon became my favorite place to climb and train. The cave is call The Posers Lounge. This cave located above Ouray, Colorado, hard mixed climbing there began in the early 90s.
One of my first times climbing in this place I remember my friend Pablo telling me that Will Gadd did all of the routes in the same day. This place it is extremely overhanging, I remember wondering how could somebody climb all the routes in the same day?
The years went by and I started to work one route at a time, and last year I finished my a goal of climbing them all. Once I finished the last route, my new goal started. I told myself that I will climb them all, in the same day.
After hard sessions of training and climbing with the help of great friends Like Will Gadd, Steve house and Brian Gilmore, I headed to the cave with my girlfriend Annie. That day I wasn't sure if I will try them all, so I told myself that I will be doing one at the time and see how goes.
I started with Cinnamon and Cider M11. Then I climbed the traverse M11, moved to Gold Line M10. I was feeling really good, so I start Fist Full of Steel M10-, once back down on the ground I just had to climb one more route in order to accomplish a long time goal and a dream too. Tragolodite was the last route for me to do. I eat 2 GU's feeling ready to go, I bumped the sound system up, now Pantera is blasting very loud and I started climbing. Half way up the route I got this feeling of anxiety. I told myself, "Andres just relax and keep climbing." Half-way up, where the crux is, my ice axe got stuck!!!! I yell fuck my tool is stuck and on that point I thought that was the end. If I can just finish this section the rest of the route it is easy come on just stay focus slow down and figure a way to get the axe back. Try once try twice, finally!!! The axe came out. Keep climbing, turn the last roof, and easy terrain took me to the top of the route. Once a the top I was so STOKED!!!!! What a great feeling my long time goal was accomplished.
Six months of alpine climbing/ guiding can get pretty tiring, so sport climbing in Spain was a great way to relax and Annie and I head that way. We have the opportunity to meet with two great friends Elias and Bridget and the four of us will be traveling together !!!! Elias it is originally from Spain, so getting around will be pretty easy.
Once in Madrid, we head to the center to check it out. This city it is pretty cool.
We head yo Segovia where Elias is from.
Segovia it is a very beautiful little town with incredible architecture and very nice people.
Doing the tourist thing in Segovia this castle is pretty cool.
Couple of days of resting and getting use to the Spain time we head to a local crag to start climbing.
About a week before I came to this trip and while in the AMGA alpine exam, I had a knee injury that had me little incapacitate in the beginning of the trip.
This little crag was pretty fun.
A day later we had the chance to see the Real Madrid and Barcelona game in TV it was pretty cool people are super passionate about that kind of games and awesome 2 to 2 finish made the game super cool to watch.
The day after the game we head in our way to Rodellar making stops along the way.
The first one, it was a climbing area that is call Fuente Iduena a Small place with a great location: limestone and all the routes where under an old castle. Cool stuff.
After our climb there we head to another cool place that is call Patones.
This place was awesome. Aldo not been super popular there are more than 1,000 routes to climb here !!!!
Great day climbing here and yet the best was just about to come.
Rodellar was our next stop !!!!!
This place is world class destination for sport climbing with over 2,000 routes from 5.8 to 5.15 makes it one of the coolest places to rock climb in the earth.
The caves are huge and limestone it is everywhere mazing view of the hole en tired place.
One of the coolest features is call the El Delfin. A natural arch with climb in all sides.
A great view from our place. one of our favorites things to do is drinking coffee and checking out the priceless view.
After a nice breakfast we juts got out for the day of climbing. Every day we find a really cool climb, and this one may be top two. It is call Roxy La Palmera a incredible fun pitch of pure tufa climbing.
From there that's was all we wanted to climb Tufas !!!!!! This other route was super cool too.
After climbing tons of Tufas it was time to head back home cook nice dinner and hang out.
The climbing was juts 10 min walk from town !!!!!
We spend the last few days climbing steep stuff. Time went really fast and it was time to head to Barcelona on our way to France.
Barcelona it is a very cool city with tons of history and incredible architecture. We spend 4 days checking the City out, Beach and other fun places.
We end up in France in a really cool pace is call ANNECY. Annecy it is where the headquarters of Millet are located.
Before my meetings breakfast need it to happen !!!!
The Millet head quarters are super cool. Here it is where everything happens.
A full day of meetings with super talented designers and other folks that make the gear.
Very cool things coming in the next few months. In fact! some of them will revolution the gear industry
Once done in Annecy we head to GRENOBLE to visit a good friend of mine and to go check out the PETZL factory.
The PETZL factory is incredible we got a full tour of the place. It is awesome to see how all the gear is make and see how all the future design gets thought out. Super impress with the factory that I get to represent.
From the factory we head to our great friend Simon where we spend couple of days traveling around. He show the cool places for climbing but also the town.
Our first day of climbing we went and check out Simons favorite area. Big limestone wall up in the mountains. Unfortunately was raining that day so we decided to head to L'Usine.
L'Usine it is a huge cave out side of Grenoble. it has more than 13 routes from D6 to D14. It is the make for dry tooling in Europe super incredible place.!!!!!!!
Awesome times climbing and hanging out with Simon and friends but it was time for us to head back to Spain to enjoy our last days before starting our way back home.
One of the last places that we check out was the Castillo de Alcazar. This castle it is the oldest and biggest in Europe. Very impressive.
The last in Segovia we head to a new dry tool area that some friends of Elias had develop. the place was pretty fun. some of the routes have never been lead and grades still being figure out. Here are some shoots of the place :
Our trip was getting to an end and Madrid was waiting for us just before flying to the US.
A day we spend in Madrid before we find out that our flight was canceled due super storm Sandy. We end up stay in Madrid for 5 days before we where able to flight back home.
All and all was a incredible trip. Thanks Annie, Elias, Bridget, Simon and all the other friends that we meet and hang out with for the great times !!!!!!!