CHINESE WATER TORTURE ON GEAR

One of my projects for this winter was climbing Chinese Water Torture on gear (no clipping the blots) Usually this route has a grade of M8+ using the bolts, but on gear it would be more a M8+ R X. It has become a style that really fits my personality ( mental and phisically) I really like in it.

It is a great way to learn about myself it makes me get out my confort zone and I get to learn lots about the hole experience.

Is also the first time that this route is has been done in this style.

The route takes the gear on sections in which many of the pieces are very marginal in fact if I had to rated on aid climbing grades and in terms of how much the pieces will held if I would of fall on them, it will more like a A3+ to A4-.

No much confidence on them.

I decided to use a half rope system to have less impact force on the pieces in case of a fall for this the Blue Water excellence half rope system was the choise for the job.

All do my mind set it was not falling aloud.

Here is a secuense of the route. All photos wore taking by Jason Thompson. The complete gear photo myself (Andres Marin Collection)