Thursday, February 25, 2010

MIGTHY APHRODITE ON GEAR!!!!

Mighty Aphrodite!!!!! it is one of the coolest lines in the Ouray ice park.
Little history about this route: it was put up by Lucy Creamer a super strong British Climber in the late 90's. She didn't wanted to put bolts, so she work the roue from the ground up on top rope. once she had the route very wired, she pre place the protection and did it on that style.
After her ascent, the route just saw very few ascents. Years past and nobody really climbed the route because of the seriousness of the grade M9 R X.
Last year after the consent of the first ascentionist, Mark Miller a long time local super good climber, talked with Lucy and asked her if he could bolt the route for a safer future ascents.
Once the route was bolted I had the chance to be the first person to On-sight the route from that point on it has see many red points.

Last week after being inspired by a climber from SLC who wanted to attempt the route on the old style (pre-placing the protection) and not clipping the bolts,
I came with the idea of doing the route on the most pure style possible. placing my own gear from the ground up. Crazyyy from the ground up MAN!!!!!

I did a top rope run to figure out the gear and came the next day.
It was a super cool experience it totally change the sequence of the route and the mental part is pretty hard too.
My commitment level it was pretty high. No room for mistakes if you blow it you will be seriously damage.
Mi body Mike T was the belayer and Vince Anderson was the witness.
After did a route of high intensity and been at the top I was very happy to be able to do the route on the most pure style that any body had climb it.

Here is the beginning of the route where is the serious business. At this point any fall would have terrible consequences.
I'm above a very old angle piton. After climbing a long ways above my placement, I finally get the section of the route where I can plug couple of pieces.
Little piece of mind here after plugging 3 OK pieces in a roll. I decide to used a half ropes system in order to minimise the force on my protection. the Blue Water excellence 8.4 MM half ropes.
Last pro of the route before heading to the final part of the route.
Here I'm just about to place a bird beak and secure it with a piece of Gum yeah!!! GUM


The top of the route the most hectic part of the climb. Below me I had a bird beak and below that I had a micro stopper, couple aliens and then a big ledge that would hurt me bad if I did not stick the top move. top out!!!!!! and is all good times MIGTHY MIGTHY BABY:)

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