27 AND COUNTING !!!!!!!

Good times in indian creek celebrating my B-DAY with some good buds. Annie is climbing some dream splitters!!!!
party time!!!! 27 years and counting !!!!!!!!
some 5.13 action in Rubys cafe getting sally pump... good times good times.

WINTER 2010 MIXED CLIMBING

HERE ARE SOME ICE AND MIXED CLIMBING IMAGES IN OURAY FROM THIS PAST 2010 WINTER THANKS TO JASON THOMPSON AND JTHOMPSONPHOTOGRAPHY !!!!!!

2010 RED ROCK RENDEZVOUS

THE RENDEZVOUS WAS SUPER COOL.. I HAD THE OPPORTUNITY TO TEACH A OW CLINIC.. MY STUDENTS WERE SUPER PSYCHED TO LEARN HOW TO SCRAPE THE HELL OUT OF YOURSELF CLIMBING WIDE CRACKS. PASING THE INFO ABOUT ALL THE GOOD STUFF THAT THE MASTER CRAIG LUEBBEN

TAUGHT ME....

THEN IT WAS TIME TO CLIMB THE OW'S BABY... WE CLIMB THIS ROUTE IS CALLED CHRYSLER CRACK... IN MY OPINION IT WAS A PRETTY SAND BAG 5.9 BUT SUPER FUNN!!!LOOK AT THIS THING....IT WAS GNARLY WIDE !!!!!
EVERYBODY HAD A CHANCE TO CLIMB AND WE ALL HAD BLAST!!!!!
MANY THANKS TO BLUE WATER ROPES FOR BRINGING ME TO THE RENDEZVOUS ALSO I WOULD LIKE TO THANK 5.10 SHOES AND PETZL.... LOOKING FORWARD FOR THE NEXT RENDEZVOUS.

CLIMBING WITH THE GIMPS ON ICE !!!!!

One of the most inspirational weekends I had this winter, was climbing with this awesome group of climbers.

The organization is call PARADOX Sports they provide inspiration, opportunities and adaptive equipment to the disable community, empowering their pursuit of a life of excellence through human-powered outdoor sports.

This guys are awesome super psyched on climbing and learning. in fact, it is a group that is going to the AK this spring to go climb big alpine routes.

After warming up on some ice climbs, we all had the opportunity to do some Mixed climbing.

This guys SEND BIG TIME!!!!
They wore super amp on Mixed climbing. WHAT A COOL EXPERIENCE !!!!!!

Check what they are getting in to it at www.paradoxsports.org

MIGTHY APHRODITE ON GEAR!!!!

Mighty Aphrodite!!!!! it is one of the coolest lines in the Ouray ice park.

Little history about this route: it was put up by Lucy Creamer a super strong British Climber in the late 90's. She didn't wanted to put bolts, so she work the roue from the ground up on top rope. once she had the route very wired, she pre place the protection and did it on that style.

After her ascent, the route just saw very few ascents. Years past and nobody really climbed the route because of the seriousness of the grade M9 R X.

Last year after the consent of the first ascentionist, Mark Miller a long time local super good climber, talked with Lucy and asked her if he could bolt the route for a safer future ascents.

Once the route was bolted I had the chance to be the first person to On-sight the route from that point on it has see many red points.

Last week after being inspired by a climber from SLC who wanted to attempt the route on the old style (pre-placing the protection) and not clipping the bolts,

I came with the idea of doing the route on the most pure style possible. placing my own gear from the ground up. Crazyyy from the ground up MAN!!!!!

I did a top rope run to figure out the gear and came the next day.

It was a super cool experience it totally change the sequence of the route and the mental part is pretty hard too.

My commitment level it was pretty high. No room for mistakes if you blow it you will be seriously damage.

Mi body Mike T was the belayer and Vince Anderson was the witness.

After did a route of high intensity and been at the top I was very happy to be able to do the route on the most pure style that any body had climb it.

Here is the beginning of the route where is the serious business. At this point any fall would have terrible consequences.

I'm above a very old angle piton. After climbing a long ways above my placement, I finally get the section of the route where I can plug couple of pieces.
Little piece of mind here after plugging 3 OK pieces in a roll. I decide to used a half ropes system in order to minimise the force on my protection. the Blue Water excellence 8.4 MM half ropes.
Last pro of the route before heading to the final part of the route.

Here I'm just about to place a bird beak and secure it with a piece of Gum yeah!!! GUM

The top of the route the most hectic part of the climb. Below me I had a bird beak and below that I had a micro stopper, couple aliens and then a big ledge that would hurt me bad if I did not stick the top move. top out!!!!!! and is all good times MIGTHY MIGTHY BABY:)

THE SKY IS FALLING

The Sky is Falling. This route it is pretty cool. It is originally grade M10, but I personally think that it is M9. The first part of the route is pretty cool WI 4+. Is the same start for the Tourist trap, but you go left traversing the wild roof. super cool moves from the beginning of the rock part. cut your feet lose, some up side down moves.. move out of the roof and hit the head wall for a very cool finish.
What a cool route. highly recommended!!!!!!!!

AMES ICE HOSE AND BRIDAIL VAIL IN A DAY

I had a great time with my body Mike T linking two of the most classic Ice Climbs in USA.

We Start with Bridal Vail. This climb is the most 3D Ice Climb EVER!!!!

This year the 2 pitch is little crazy, but very very cool.

This 2 Climbs wore Mikes first Ice climbs of the season. WAY TO GO MIKE T!!!!!!!

Then we went to the Ice Hose. I did the 1 and 2 pitch together creating and amazing 65 meters ice pitch.
The first pitch it was very pick out. but no pro man!!!!!! really no pro man!!!!! The landing zone is very good. deep snow on a steep slope. If you blow it you can roll down the windows wile catching some serious AIR!!!!!
Here is Mike T leading the last enduro pitch of the Ice Hose venga venga apretando MIKE!!!!!!!!!
Good times on the San Juan's with a great friend.