THE OURAY ICE FESTIVAL

It took me about 2 weeks to decompress from the Ice Fest here in Ouray.

This year Fest is was like any other Ouray Ice fest, super fun!!!!!!!

I got to see lots of good friends from all over the place, friends that I only get to see every time this festival happens. I also got to see lots of psyched people who wanted to go ice climbing, party, learn new stuff, hot springs, check out gear, party some more, dance, take clinics and seminars,high line, get super cool standing around, fall in the river and have lots of fun...... What a great event.!!!!!!

The comp was also very cool. Like any other comp you have only one chance to do good, other wise you are gone have to wait for some other day to try again the route and hopefully do good. Some of us including myself feel very low on the route :( Some other people have the chance to make it a ways out, some other people said TAKE!!!!! Even when they have the chance to get higher on it and maybe keep on going. Crazy heee? !!!! Some others like home boys Josh W and Will M had the chance to make it to the top and all of us cheer for them. Way to good bros !!!!

On the female side of the comp and with only 4 women on the comp :( Home girl Dawn G took first place great work CHICA !!!!!. Super good props for Emily H who despite her lack of mixed climbing knowledge she when out there and give it a go to the route until she feel. WAY TO GO EMILY !!!!! Next year for sure :)

Definitely looking forward for next year Ice Fest!!!!

Ha!!!! lets bring some more female talent to the mixed arena!!!!!

Many thanks for all the people who make it happen what a rad event to be part of!!!!

Also many thanks for the people who took my clinics hope you guys learn something :)

Looking forward for the next Ice Fest.

THE HARDEST MIXED SEND SO FAR !!!!!

On Christmas day, I had the opportunity to head out to the cave above the ice park with my good friend E House to give a goo to my project. It was sunny and in the warm side. I was feling pretty good energy wise, some words of encouragement from my friend and I went to send my first project of the season.

The proj is call The grand traverse of the cave grade? M hard. Harder that any other route in the cave where routes go up to M11+. It may off be the second or first ascent of this route. No really sure!!!

This is the hardest Mixed route that I have ever climb so far and this is enough for me.

What a great route.!!!!!!

Here is a over view of the route: Starts on the left side and start traversing all the way to the right. The opening sequence is pretty cool follow by quite dynamic climbing and finishing on a steep head wall the technical crux, where I had fall in previous attempts with 8 tries total is been the longest mixed climb for me to rep point in terms of tries. It was a great challenge especially mental one.

Photo of victory sharing great felling with a friend who has give me lots of inspiration and tons of encouragement. Plus he totally when out his way to give me a belay for the final send.

Thanks bro E House!!!!!

THE TALISMAN

The Ice conditions this winter in the San Juan's is been out the hook everything is ON!!!!!!

So far I had the opportunity to climb most of the classics like this one THE TALISMAN.

The talisman of one of the hardest classics where the climb is very steep and engaging especially in condition like this.

I had the opportunity to climb this route in the end of November with a climber who I consider one of the best and who I also had the chance to hang out and learn tons from. This guy have define what alpine climbing is all about. His name Steve House. He has been a great mentor and a person who have teach me lots of cool stuff in the short time that we have been climbing together. Thank for all the inspiration S H.

Here is a close up photo of what is waiting for us up there.

The first pitch we did in 2 because the difficulty of it. No much ice but lots of low angle unprotectable loose rock and frozen grass. quiet scary!!!!

We wore pretty busy dealing with the second pitch that we didi not have time to shot some photos, but let me tell you that it was pretty dam hard.

Here Steve leading the 3 pitch very steep ice. keep in mind that we wore the first team to climb this route this season so everything was very fresh and is usually harder.

After the good climbing with a great friend and climbing partner was time for a WE ARE IN ONE PIECE and ALIVE photo. great times Steve thanks again brother :)

ICE NIGHT IN COLORADO SPRINGS

This year was the 4 annual ice night in Colorado springs.

The ice night is basically an indoor climbing demonstration where you can dry tool in indoor climbing holds and swing into the ice holdz.

Lots of people come to see and people from all levels can climb and check out what this event is all about. definitely good times!!!!!! Some sending on the dry tool route long moves very fun!!!!!
In the second chance that we had to climb the route and since no body have make it to the top on the the first try, I was able to make the fardest on the route. In the end, the route still not send, but we all had great time!!!!!

NEW DRY TOOLING AREA IN OURAY

I got to Ouray in mid October super psyched to be back in the San Juan's to see my friends to climb especially mixed climb and train for the winter projects and competitions.

Since last winter I have been thinking about this wall who would be perfect for my training, climbing and every body's enjoyment to climb new mixed, (more realistic) dry routes.

As much of you know, (who ever have put up new routes) that is lots of work. right !!!

picking the line, figure it out where and how you are going to bolt it, cleaning all the lose rock and then and last SENDING IT !!!!!!!!

Conditions were perfect. Sunny, warm and dry. I gather some gear that I got from my friends Clint Cook and Steve House who very nice and help me out and there I went. The mission is on the way !!!!!!!!!
First I start with the steepest part of the wall where the lines there are pretty cool looking a series of roofs where the climbing looks very interesting.

This roof is very cool feature and climbs really cool too....
Little bit on the hard side to bolt. My back was pretty work after I finish with it...
Then from the roof down is was pretty fast to figure it out where the line should go.....

Especially with a Hilti power drill soooooo much better than hand drill how I usually drill in the desert with.

After some long day is all done ready to be climb the first of 4 routes who are going to be put up in the course of this winter. Is time to SEND.

My good friend Bryan Gilmore who is a bad ass and myself agree that is about keep it real M8

Maybe a big harder!!!!

I wanted to thank Anita who help me out on the bolted day, Clint Cook for the drill and drilling kit and Steve House for the hangers. Many thanks Amigos !!!!!!!!!

ROCK OURAY

In the beginning of Nov here in Ouray, we had a super fun rock climbing competition that my good friend Kevin Copprek organize.

The comp was a endurance comp. 1:30 min of climbing with the same partner. Both climbers had to lead the routes from 5.10 to 5.12 and one "alpine route" a 5.6 that we had to climb with a 35 pound back pack. There were 6 teams of pretty good rock climbers specially the locals who know all the routes move by move.

I had the pleasure of having Steve House as my partner so we wore all psyched to climb for 1:30 straight

Before the comp starts, the rain came down on us but everybody including the spectators wore psyched to roll with the program.

And their we goo. the Clock start and is climbing time.

It was my first time climbing with Steve, and let me tell you that it was super fun.

Here he is climbing in the middle of the rain after 7 pitches of 5.11- Our strategy was climbing the alpine route as much as we can since that route had the most points of all. Super sketchy climbing the wet slab with a heavy pack in my running shoes.
Check this one out here of all us on the sharp end climbing as much pitches as we could.
In the end, our strategy paid out and we end up having the most points of any of the teams

taking first place. Here a photo of Steve and I with our points card. Super fun times climbing with my partner sharing some god times with all the other climbers and being cheering by lots of spectators. Thanks to everybody for the good times and looking forward for next year

ROCK OURAY ENDURO COMP.

CHICAGO MARATHON

This last October, I had the opportunity to go to Chicago and checkout the Marathon.

My awesome girl friend Anita was running the Marathon to help a fund raise in central Mexico.

Anita's Mom start 11 years ago CASA DE LOS ANGELES. It is a day care for single moms with very little $ to raise their kids.

The Chicago Marathon is the main event where they had the opportunity to raise money for a great cause. In the end they end up raising over 40,000 dollars. that it is the double down in mexico. WAY TO GO :)

The marathon was a great event to watch over 35,000 people run that every year. Super inspairing. In terms of distance Marathons a 24 miles. So for most of us it will take more than 3 hours of running no stop~!!!!! People from all over the World run in this event plus they have the chance to check out the city that way to. Here is Anita with her awesome smile she keep it for 24 miles straight. Pretty cool.
Lots of funny al cools things to see along the Marathon.

In the end is was a great time on the city. What a great experince looking forward for next year. Here is a little video of the start of the race. Some people thats what they do for living run marathons especially the Africans how are the BEST runners in the world. Check it out.