COOL MILLET VIDEO FROM INDIAN CREEK

this is a great video that we shoot with Millet in Indian Creek a few Autumns ago!! https://vimeo.com/64837014

SAN JUAN MOUNTAIN GUIDES PERU VIDEO

Here is a video from the expeditions to Alpamayo with San Juan Mountain Guides!
https://vimeo.com/114821085

SAN JUAN MOUNTAIN GUIDES ALASKA VIDEO 2014

Here is a cool video that I made from the trips guiding in the Alaska Range this past spring:  https://vimeo.com/114821085

FUN ARTICLE FROM ROCK AND ICE ABOUT MY LAST ADVENTURE IN AK

Rock and Ice did a very fun article about my good friend Clint and I first ascent on the central Alaska range this past Spring.
http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/trip-report-andres-marin-and-clint-helander-climb-new-alaskan-alpine-route?A=SearchResult&SearchID=2412664&ObjectID=4429199&ObjectType=35

Trip Report: Andres Marin and Clint Helander Climb New Alaskan Alpine Route

09-Jun-2014

By Clint Helander

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Photo courtesy of Marin and Helander

This past May, Andres Marin and I made a short, but exhilarating expedition in to the Alaska Range. Our goal was to explore the East Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier for new routes. Despite its immediate proximity from Kahiltna Base Camp in the Southeast Fork, the East Fork receives little traffic. Based off of several photographs Andres had seen from friends who had previously ventured into the area, we decided to take a look. After much reconnoitering, we found a hidden gem that we had initially overlooked.

Unseasonably warm temperatures in the Alaska Range made climbing on nearly every aspect at lower elevations questionable. Regardless, we skied past the south faces of East and West Kahiltna Peaks, Vince Andreson and Barry Blanchard established several lines in the early 2000s. South facing routes were more or less out of the question, as every steep mixed line was seemingly bare; only defined by traces of slush avalanches and rock fall. Further up glacier, we scouted Mount Andrews, which is a prominent sub peak on Denali’s South Buttress. Going Monk, established by Kelly Cordes and Jonny Copp, is the mountain’s only line, but contains well over 4,000-feet of relief. Other magnificent lines were just barely threatened by one of several large seracs that adorn the upper wall.

Pictured is Marin and Helander's ascent (red) and descent (green) of the FA of Scratch and Sniff on Mount Francis. Photo courtesy of Marin and Helander

We moved further up the glacier, but the conditions were the same. Feeling slightly disheartened, we skied back to our camp under the East Ridge col of Mount Francis. Temperatures were so warm that it didn’t even freeze at night. As we weighed our next move, we looked at the snaking hoards undulating up the well-worn trail of Denali’s West Buttress. Suddenly, I found myself tracing a line up a rocky buttress on the north side of Mount Francis. Although significantly shorter than any line we were hoping to climb, it seemed like a worthy consolation and a fun day out.

The next morning, we left at the leisurely hour of 11 a.m. and began climbing a deep wallow in slush over the schrund and enjoyed some simul-climbing up a right-trending snow ledge lead to a weakness in the first steep rock band. Andres lead an amazing 65 meter pitch up a steep corner and then up a wide left-facing chimney that required an array of techniques, including placing both feet against the opposite wall and moving into an almost completely horizontal body position.

Almost every pitch contained some kind of technical 5-to-15-meter crux section of engaging M5/6 climbing. Just as one option closed, another opened. As the sun set, we found ourselves near the top, but the climbing remained stiff. After about nine hours, we topped out on the pointed buttress. Several rappels on rock gear led to an easy descent down an adjacent ice gully where, after eleven 65-meter rappels we crossed the schrund.

Photo courtesy of Marin and Helader

The next morning we skied back to Kahiltna base camp and concluded that conditions were not ideal for further pursuits. Regardless, we both left with a feeling of joy and accomplishment. While we were unable to attempt any of the intimidating and challenging 4000-foot climbs we had planned on, we discovered that big things come in small packages. Our new route Scratch and Sniff (IV/V M6 5.8 1200') on Stubbs’ Buttress (named in honor of Talkeetna’s world famous cat mayor) contained twelve pitches of incredible climbing on a previously untouched feature, less than two hours from Kahilta Base Camp.

Andres and I have been friends for the better part of a decade. We first met in 2005 while working on Mount Rainier. In the wake of the Liberty Ridge tragedy (where we both lost our good friend Eitan Greene), we felt truly satisfied to share a wonderful day on a steep face together, relishing the exquisite climbing almost as much as the reaffirmed friendship.

MILLET SPRING/SUMMER COLLECTION

This season MILLET has some really cool stuff going.
Check out the 2014 Spring Summer. I got to work really close with some of the products: http://www.millet.fr/en/products

AFTERMATH OF OUR ASCENT

This was the appreciation from the media about Sean's ascent of Bridalveil Falls.
Here is the  ROCK and ICE report and also a very cool video that The Denver Post made. Also, a cool blog that one of my favorite sponsors PETZL did about our climb. Last but not least, here is the recount that MILLET did.

We really want to thank them for the support!!!!! 

FIRST PARAPLEGIC TO CLIMB BRIDALVEIL FALLS

I had the great opportunity to climb Bridailveil Falls WI5+/6 with Sean ONeil.

He became the first Paraplegic to climb the falls and to climb the hardest ice climb that a paraplegic has climbed.

Sean has a very impressive climbing resume with 3 ascents of El Capitan, an ascent of half dome, amongst many other big rock climbs.

For me, climbing with Sean was one of the most inspirational things that I have wittnessed and something that I will always be thankful for. 

This awesome adventure would not  have been possible without the help and support of: Paradox Sports, Timmy ONeil, Leon Davis, Kevin Zeichmann, Dan Sohner, Pete Davis, Ben Clark, Dane Cronin, Kirk Williams, Hellen Davis, Abbott (snow machine expert) and off course PETZL, MILLET, BLUE WATER ROPES, GU, JULBO, FIVETEN.

Thanks a ton!!!!!

Here Sean is explaining me his new system. We are soooooo stoked to climb and see how it works....

At the base of the route contemplating our climb Bridailveil WI5+/6, one of the most iconic ice climbs in USA, maybe in the World too!!!!

Working out last minute details before heading out to climb the first part of the falls.

Let the climb begin, all sorts of rope systems we had to use. Basically, we used big wall ice climbing techniques.

Time for Sean to try out his new ice climbing system. That blue ice was very hard to penetrate, but it was very awesome for the eyes :)

Mid way up the route Sean is climbing like a machine, the ascent was recorded for a movie that a very prestigious outdoor film making firm is going to make. The short film will be out and in all the major outdoor film festivals.  

Last moves before reaching the top of the climb. By that time our effort, especially Sean's is 110%.

Sean it is super stoked about his accomplishment. Check out that awesome smile!!!!!

Summit shot!!!!!!!

     

THE BEST ROPE BAG EVER!!!!

I been using this rope and I juts love it. Not only works just for climbing but also for all kinds of stuff including my laundry system!!!!

BLUEWATER calls it  the ROPE CAULDRON. Once again BW just kicking ass with another great product.
It is totally collapsible for transportation. Once deploy, it has room not only for the rope but whatever else you like to put inside. Also contains 3 gear loops and a zipper pocket.
Pretty sweet!!!!!!

   

HOW GU HELPED ME WIN THE SPEED COMP IN OURAY

 GU products have always been a huge part of my training and performance. From World Cups to expeditions and everything in between.
This year at the Ouray Ice Festival, I saw the benefits of hard training combined with good healthy performance products.
The competition at the Ouray Ice Fest is the most prestigious ice climbing competition in the country  and world renown one.

There are two different comps; difficulty and speed. World class ice climbers come from all over the globe to give their best and hope to stand on the podium.
In the difficulty competition you have to climb a very long and complex overhanging route. This kind of comp it is my favorite style.

On Saturday morning it was my turn, filled up with plenty of energy from the Roctane that I took while warming up, I launched my quest of getting to the top. After climbing 80+% of the route I made a technical mistake, loosing my ice axe. I still tried to climb up with only one. The couple thousand people cheering me on,  I could feel their energy while I was upside down fighting to try and get at least one more move up. I had plenty of energy, but with only one ice axe, there was only so much that I could do. At the end, I ranked 6 place overall not too bad considering that I was head to head with some of the best mixed climbers in the sport.

Moving from that result, I needed to focus my attention on the next day's comp, the speed comp. It consists of climbing two long ice routes as fast as you can while going head to head against another competitor. The final time combined from both routes gives the overall result.

I started my day with a smoothie that contained mainly fruits and recovery Brew, a session of stretching and visualization of how I was going to do the course, as fast as I could, set for the challenge.

The day went super good for me. It was my time to go and I was ready with my plan.  Which was to climb both routes giving 110% effort.

Lots of people cheering, I could hear the judges counting down the time.  I heard the clock count down to go and all the noise disappeared, as if no body was there. My surreal state stopped once I hit the bell on the first route. My senses came back and all the sudden, the noise of lots of people came back. Got lowered down, the other competitor had not finish the route, which was a good sign. I had a few extra seconds for me to lower my heart rate. My heart was pounding really fast.
Ninety seconds went fast, and it was time for the next route.

Once again, I heard the GO! And all my senses just focused on what I had in front of me. I climbed so fast that it almost felt like I was holding my breath all the way to the top. Once I swung for the bell, reality came back.

It was time to wait for the results, I knew I had a great run, but so did the other 16 competitors. Especially the Europeans, who are well known to be world class in the speed format.

A couple of hours later, at the award ceremony we heard the final results. When they called first place and my name was on the big check, it was a great feeling.  Like a dream come true.

This was possible thanks to GU and climbing partners/trainers Rob Pizem and Steve House.

     

  

     

OURAY ICE FEST RECAP

This year the Ouray Ice Festival was a total blast!!!!

Great times teaching clinics, seeing friends from all over the globe, and the challenge of the competitions were the highlights on this year's festival.

I look forward to this event, year after year. Training hard, I put major focus on fitness to perform at a high level in the biggest ice climbing competition in the country.

The OIF has two competitions: Difficulty and Speed.

On the difficulty competition we had to climb about 20 feet of ice followed by an M9 rock route, over an ice bulge, in order to get to the final structure. This is where very difficult and powerful climbing had to be done in order to finish the route. I was feeling very strong, and with plenty fuel in the tank after reaching the structure I made a technical mistake and one of my ice axes fell off.  Leaving me with only one tool. I fought toughly to climb with only one, but the steepness of the terrain did not allow me to continue without my other axe. Meanwhile, the crowd cheered me on for my solid effort and good show. Better luck next year!!!!

The next day (Sunday) was the Speed comp. I was totally focused, and after studying the course I had a plan.

The Speed comp consists of two steep ice routes.  The goal is to climb both routes as fast as possible and the total combined time will give the result. You also go head to head with other competitor.

The time had come, it was my turn.  I tied into the rope, waited for the sign of the judges, and there I went climbing as fast and efficient as I could. i remember thinking after i finish the first route, "man I climbed fast that route" the belayers lowered me down to the ground.  The other competitor had not finished the route which gave me an extra few seconds to rest besides, the 60 seconds allowed. He finished the route, got lowered down. We rested for bit longer and it was time for the next heat. On the second route i focused my energy on climbing as fastest as I could. Besically full throttle. My heart is pumping really fast, but my eyes stayed focused on the goal of reaching the top of the route as fast as possible. It was a surreal time until the sound of the bell from my ice axe hitting the metal wok me up.

I had finished both routes. After all the competitors (20 men and 6 women) had the opportunity to go it was time for the judges to pull the times and get the result. At the award ceremony, not knowing my name was going to be called for first place in the mens division, it was a great surprise, and an awesome feeling standing on the highest step of the podium, along with two of the best competitors in the world Jeff Mercier from France, and Mauro Dorigatti from Italy. Many hours of hard training had paid off and a dream had come true. Can't wait for next year's Ouray ice festival.  

2014 OURAY ICE FESTIVAL CLINICS!!

The 2014 Ouray Ice Festival is coming soon and the calendar of events is up on the web.
I will be teaching 3 clinics, 2 on Friday and 1 on Sunday.
Get your spot before they are fill up looking forward to see you there!!!!
Check out the Ouray Ice Festival Clinic Schedule

A Great Day of Early Season Ice Climbing in Ouray!!

This season here in Ouray, CO we are having an incredible start to the Winter with tons of Ice climbing and great skiing.

My training for the upcoming competitions and climbing projects is going super well, and most importantly very fun.

I have couple of days in between training cycles, so I decided to go and have fun ice climbing in the backcountry for two days in a row.  The first route I did it with my girlfriend Annie, we climbed the Ribbon WI-4 200M.  The second was with Bryan Gilmore who is one of my favorite climbing partners. We climbed the Talisman WI6, M6R 220M.

I usually start my day with a smoothie to get energy and my body in tune. 

Here is one of my recipes:

1 Banana

3 Chard lives 

1/2 Apple 

1/4 Cup of Berries

1/4 Cup of yogurt

1/4 Almond milk 

3 scoops of GU RECOVERY SMOOTHIE!!!!!

Some ice, put it all on the blender and you will get the most awesome 

smoothie. A great way to start your day!

  

While drinking my yummy smoothie, I'm putting together the gear that I'm taking for a long day of hard alpine ice climbing:

THE  ROCTANE and ELECTROLYTE BREW is a great and efficient way to stay hydrated after long approaches and to keep energy levels high, so they are one of the items I make sure to have with me!!    

   

After the approach from the trail head to the base of route a warm ROCTANE cup and a ROCTANE GU will get you ready to start climbing hard!!!!

  

There we go climbing time!!! Keeping the BREW and GU up will make me fill like a Rockstar or I should say an Ice star!!!! The route in this photo is called The Talisman. Right now (early conditions) the route it is really hard!!!

It is pretty incredible how you feel with good overall nutrition and products like the ones GU offers. Performance will always be up when you stay on top of providing your body with fuel.

Thanks to GU for keeping me always energized for my adventures, competitions, and expeditions all over the world!!!!   

 All best, 

IMAGES FROM PERU!!

Here are some images from the trip to Alpamayo in Peru.

This is a view from our hotel in Huaraz of Huazcaran  which is the tallest peak in Peru.  

Typical food of Peru where is all natural and delicious.....

Our acclimatization hike to some pre Inca ruins.....

After living Huaraz our next stop was Cachapampa where we pack all the gear in Burros and start hiking in. I took a photo with the future alpinist of Peru....

The trail to our first camp was really cool.....

We hike by a huge lake the view from here was fantastic.....

Some of the rock formations here where pretty tall like a big wall.....

In our rest break our porters and cook took really good care of us with awesome food....

Getting closer to BC of Alpamayo...... 

 Once establish in BC the 360 view offer beautiful panorama.....

 Taking a breakfast before going to a hike. Here is most  of the team.......

This photo is taking from our camp 3. we can see from here the glacier that we need it to cross in order to get to high camp....

Getting all the gear ready including the Blue Water Ropes to head up HC, getting there we need it to do some technical climbing.....

Once a HC a great view of Alpamayo and the route that we climbed super great view from this camp...

Most of the way up!!!! This face was about 400 meters long with super fun ice climbing....

After 5 hours of climbing all the team was at the summit 19,511 feet great to be up there......

After our summit we came down to BC to rest and eat some amazing food that our cook Max had ready for us!!!

This photo is taking from Alpamayo BC, this Mountain is call Artesonraju......

All and all a super fun trip I'm totally looking forward to climb more in the Cordillera Blanca next year!!!!

PERU!!!

Our expedition was just in credible.

Every moment was juts fantastic, in our journey to the top of Alpamayo: 

from our long bus ride from Lima to Huaraz, meeting great people in Huaraz,

putting all our gear together in H town, taking the bus to Cachapampa, the magic hike through the majestic canyons that took us to our first camp where we spend the our first night out where we can hear the Santa Cruz River running with its clear water. 

Our next day hike to Base camp where the first view of our objective and lots of other just stunning mountains that captive our attention. 

Once at BC the UNO games start and the scores start to acumulate. 

The meals that Max (our chef) made for us where out of a 5 stars mountain hotel. Our way up making carries and getting and higher we got to see different side of the hills side and the glacier open right to our view. 

Moraine camp at the foot of the main glacier was a great place to observe our surounding. After spending the night there it was time for us to head up an get to Col camp, where cool glacier travel and little of climbing was waiting for us.

We also witness the strengh of our porters Zacarias and Pelayo, that carrying 90 pounds of stuff did not slow them down a bit to climb steep snow at 16,000. 

Once Col camp the hole entire face of Alpamayo was just in front of us with its dreamy looking ice runnels that go from the top all the way to the base. After the rest day, it was time for us to atemtp the summit. 

We woke up super early alpine start early and start heading to the base of the route. 

300M 45 to 60 degree ice runnel was waiting for us. 

The climb was just fun super sticky ice and dreamy snow took us to the top of Alpamayo where, we all enjoy our success. We took some photos and start rappelling the face. 

It was a very long route 10 hours round trip of just fun climbing and rappelling, before we knew it, we find ourselves back in camp, a rest day was in order and then we start back tracking our way down to BC where Rodrigo and Max had plan a fun day of rest and eating  for us. 

They made a very special plate call PACHAMANCA. 

It takes long time to make since they make a fire first, dig a hole put all the food in the hole cover it and let it cook for 45 min. It was a great feast. 

The next day it was time for us to start our hike down to Huaraz. 

We spend couple of days there and we all flew back home safe and sound. All and all it was a superb expedition full of great time and incredible views and company. I'm totally looking forward to do it again next year. I also wanted to thank Ted, Chris, Julie, Charles, Rodrigo and company for such incredible times.

ALASKA VIDEO

Check this video that I made from our trip to AK with Katie Bono other Millet athlete. We climb the central west face of Kahiltna Queen the route was very cool and conditions juts fantastic.
Big thank for my partner Katie for a great company and fun climbing.
 http://vimeo.com/68154415

MILLET VIDEO

Check this video that we shoot last week in Indian Creek for Millet.
 http://vimeo.com/64837014

ROCK AND ICE NEWS!!!

ANDRES MARIN SENDS OURAY'S HARDEST MIXED LINES IN A DAY

08-Jan-2013

By Shelby Carpenter

Local climber Andres Marin just sent five of the hardest mixed lines in Ouray's Posers Cave in a single day. "My  first visit to the cave was about six years ago," Marin writes in an email toRock and Ice. "I  remember being overwhelmed by the place and how steep the climbing is."

"I also remember hearing that one of my climbing heroes Will Gadd did a session in which he dispatched all the routes in the same day."

On December 29, 2012, Marin did the same series of routes: Cinnamon and Cider (M11), theGrand Traverse of the Cave (M11), Gold Line(M10), Fist Full of Steel (M10-), and Troglodyte(M9).

In the past, Marin, who originally hails from Colombia, has sent hard mixed routes on gear such as Chinese Water Torture (M8+RX) andMithy Aphrodite (M9RX). His next big plans involve training for the Alaska alpine season and preparing for an ice climbing demonstration in a bid to include the sport in then 2014 winter Olympics.

Top photo courtesy of Andres Marin. Bottom photo by Jason Thompson Photography.

BOZEMAN ICE FEST RECAP

The Bozeman ice fest was a blast!!!
A fun weekend full of great climbing, fun clinics, super good friends and beautiful place overall.

The weekend start with some climbing and shooting some photos at the bingo world cave with my friends Tyler, Laura and Jason.
We play in a route that is call North West passage M11.

http://www.jthompsonphotography.com/motion

Next day the fest was in full speed. I spend the day teaching a clinic about ice climbing the day was really fun many athletes and students all learning and having great time.
I had the opportunity to teach a clinic for Petzl about ice climbing.

On Saturday the competition took place down town Bozeman!!!!
The structure was pretty cool and the ambience was great.
All and all a great times.

On te last day of the fest Jason T, Tyler J, Gilbert and Laura J did some photo work for Millet
Jason photos turn out being really cool!!!!

Super awesome times in Bozeman what a great event and totally looking forward to be there next year!!!!!